April 20, 2019
December 7, 2017
This Climber's Briefing is issued by USA Climbing. Please read it thoroughly and notice the items in RED. If you don't already know, this season there is a new zone scoring system for championship events (Regionals, Divisonals, and Nationals), so even if you are a seasoned competitor, please read this carefully as the scoring has changed from past years.
Click here to watch a video on bouldering competition rules, and click here to read the USAC Rulebook (the zone scoring is described on page 41, section 5.18.5).
Travel safely, and see you in Pittsburgh!
** As of 5:45pm December 7, ASCEND: Pittsburgh does not yet have a running order. They will post it on the Facebook Rustbelt Region page as well as the Rustbelt Regionalsinformation page as soon as they have created it so make sure to check those locations. I will email it as soon as I see it posted.
Rustbelt Regional Championship
Format: 6 problems, 4 minutes climbing each problem
- Start holds are marked with two flashes of tape
- If two start holds: must have one hand on each hold
- If one start hold: must have both hands on that hold
- No "flying starts" — must clearly control of start hold(s) before moving to next hold
- Once both feet are off the ground, the attempt is recorded
- Don't touch non-start holds while on the ground
- Brushing is allowed, only by climber, while on the ground not touching the wall
- Zone holds are marked with flash of tape connected to "5", "10", "15" point signs
- Zone holds require only one hand control
- Finish hold is marked with flash of tape connected to "25" point sign
- Finish hold requires clear two-hand control
- Make eye contact with judge to confirm finish (e.g., thumbs up)
On-route / Off-route
- Features (e.g., arête) are on
- All holds and volumes in your "lane" are on
- Top of wall is off; Side edge of wall is off
- T-nut holes in wall and volumes are off; Bolt holes in holds themselves are on
- Red tape — soft boundary:
- Can’t touch tape or beyond with hands
- Can't use holds or volumes beyond tape with any part of body
- Can flag/smear/hook on wall surface with feet or other non-hand parts of body
- Black tape — hard boundary:
- Can’t touch tape or beyond with any part of body
- Questions about the problem? Ask the judge
“Two Second” Rule
- One way to achieve control is to touch a hold for two seconds while in a stable, controlled position
- This means:
- Must be at least 2 seconds. Any doubt, then no control will be given
- Absolutely no movement of hand or body
Technical Incidents (a "technical")
- Some occurrences beyond climber's control can be a technical
- E.g., spinning/broken hold, collision with another climber, timing system failure
- Issues with clothing or hair, twisted ankles, etc. are not technicals
- Climber must call a technical immediately and, if judge agrees, climber must cease the attempt or forfeit ability to call technical
- No tick marks! No chalking holds or wall
- Audio announcement ("Time, time") defines the climbing period
- While in the chair you are still in ISO (no communication with coaches, parents or friends, and no turning around to look at the wall)
- No beta, coaching or advice while climber is on the wall
- Appeals: without overwhelming evidence, the default is to defer to original determination of the route judge
- Check with judge before moving any pads to ensure that you don’t endanger a climber on an adjacent problem
After each problem
- If you finish problem before time is elapsed, sit in chair for remaining time
- If you disagree with judge's score, let them know, but don't argue. Appeal to chief judge when you've finished all climbs. Video is helpful.
- You don't need to sign your scorecard.
If you have questions after reading this briefing, let the ISO monitor know and the Chief Judge will come talk to you.
December 3, 2017
USAC Bouldering regionals is Saturday, December 9 at ASCEND: Pittsburgh. Please fill out their online waiver in advance to save time.
Once you fill out and digitally sign the online portion, check the email address you provided to finalize the process. The waiver is not complete until you confirm your email. You will then receive a second email to confirm that your waiver has been sent to all parties, and you can download a copy for your records.
Click here for additional Regionals information.
Click here to sign up to volunteer.
November 27, 2017
USAC 2017 Bouldering Youth Regionals will be held at ASCEND Pittsburgh on December 9, 2017.
This is the preliminary schedule based on current registrations (as of November 27, 2017).
Regular registration ends November 30 at 11:59 MT, with a late registration ($100 late fee) running through December 2.
Make sure you register your climber with USAC in time!
November 24, 2017
HEART BURN FAQ
SPECIAL OFFER: PRE-REGISTER BY NOVEMBER 30, 2017 TO RECEIVE A FREE T-SHIRT! (*SHIRT SIZES ARE ON A FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS*)
Follow this link to the Rope Burn 2019 Live Results! https://usactherustbelt.page.link/RopeBurn2019
Here are a few things I thought might be helpful to new climbers and some good reminders for experienced climbers. This is just a guide, ...
The 2nd Annual Gretna Bouldering Comp is Saturday, November 17 (rain date Nov. 18). It is an outdoor comp. Pre-regisration is only $20 a...